I'll see if the clearance will allow for that, and use some red loctite on it.
The bolt that was in there was pretty short, and didn't give much for the nut to grab onto.I got a replacement M6 x 30mm at Lowes last night.
I had a replacement SBT engine to break-in, and the trim nozzle worked fine while I was doing the initial trailer-mounted, stern-in-water break-in.Īt some point, the bolt & nut holding the linkage to the VTS lever separated, and naturally the trim stopped varying.I just pulled the control lever assy out yesterday and found the nut missing. I adjusted the short centering cable assy and the VTS linkage to the FSM spec. The pivots are still tight, not flopply loose. When I had the reverse bucket and nozzle assembly off the transom I loosened up the bushings on the trim nozzle just a bit, with some fine sandpaper-they were so stiff initially that I thought the trim linkage might break before the nozzle would rotate. The self-centering operation baffles me too.and the trim lever was essentially non-operative when I bought the boat. Retail price from your BRP dealer is about $180.Has anybody had any experience adjusting the self centering VTS feature on a 1996 Challenger.I've got a 1996 Challenger (since August 2007-it's my first money-hole ). If you’re an OEM parts only kind of person, then the current OEM part number for a replacement VTS motor is 278001292 (previous part number was 278000616, but they’re both the same motor).
This post will talk briefly about each of those potential issues, and then explain how to replace the VTS motor, which is most likely culprit of your problems. It could be the VTS switch, it could be the VTS relay unit, or it could be the VTS motor itself. To make matters worse, there’s more than one reason that causes malfunction with the system. Even a casual web search will fill your screen with horror stories of VTS gone bad. If you have a Sea Doo with VTS (Variable Trim System), then you’re sitting on a ticking time bomb.
0 kommentar(er)
